Wednesday, December 02, 2009

Penang Bridge International Marathon 2009 (22 Nov 09)

有好一阵子没有更新我的部落格了。三月和十月的台湾行,以及在香港的一些游记都想好好的记录下来。不过,那将花费不少时间,唯有暂时搁下,先写写刚参加过的槟威大桥马拉松吧。

还记得两年前,我贪新鲜,想也不多想就应朋友的约报名参加槟威大桥马拉松的Fun Run 组,因此而开始接触跑步。2007 那年,我又陆续参加了Adidas King Of The Road (10km) 及Singapore Standard Chartered Marathon (10km)。2008年,我只参加了Ambank KL Marathon (10km). 2009年, 槟威大桥马拉松赛前,我参加了Standard Chartered KL Marathon (10km), Putrajaya Night Run (10km) 和 Mizuno Run (10km)。我并没有很频密的跑步,所以一直以来,我只敢报名10公里项目。可是这一次的Penang Bridge International Marathon(PBIM),我竟然去报名 21km half marathon,原因是10公里Fun Run没有纪念奖牌。报了名后,才觉得自己有点冲动,21公里啊,我疯了吗?算了,我就跑个11公里,再走10公里吧!预设好了后,心里就踏实许多了。工作忙碌,日子一晃,11月22日就近在眼睫了。而我的训练大概就只有Mizuno Run 的那10 公里。心里有点怕,于是临时抱佛脚,在周六与周日跑跑步,却也只是训练大约4公里而已。这一次一起北上槟城的朋友有Lai, Chak, Keen Yee, Huay Meia 和 Sew Yong。除了Sew Yong,我们都是参加半马拉松的。而这是我,KeeYee, HuayMeia 和 Chak 的第一个半马拉松。

11月21日清晨6点30分,我们在Lai 家里集合,6人一车开往怡保吃早餐。靠着GPS,我们找到了明阁茶楼。富山茶楼就在明阁茶楼对面,两层楼,装修得很得体。明阁茶楼和富山茶楼的点心是很有名的。我没吃过富山的点心,提议大家到富山。朋友们答应了,在楼上找了位子坐下。楼上是自助式的,就是说顾客必须自己到柜台点餐与领取点心。这个重任当然留给两位男士-Chak 和 Keen Yee 了。点了一桌子的点心,把肚子撑饱后,我们离开富山,喝咖啡去。当肚子的所有空位都装满怡保的美食后,我们才愿意离开,往槟城去。大约两点钟,我们check in krystal suite。然后到Queensbay Mall去领取我们的 goodies bag, 再到Jusco去买明天的早餐。过后就回到公寓里休息。晚餐呢,我们经过一番折腾,终于来到美丽华饮食中心 (SuperTanker Food Court)。我点了叉烧与烧肉饭,很好吃,尤其是那烧肉,赞!

11月22日,凌晨1点半,感觉才刚睡着,又要起床了。我们每一个人都没有睡好,可是我相信心情却是紧张与兴奋的。从公寓的窗口往外看,已经有人往Queensbay Mall走去了。全马拉松在两点半就开跑。半马拉松则在三点半才开跑。大约两点半,我们出发往Queensbay Mall走去。Queensbay Mall前的户外停车场早已热闹非常。好多人来赴这一场马拉松盛会,其中不乏来自外国的朋友,听说这次有50多个国家参赛。3点30分,男子组半马拉松先开跑。15分钟后,女子组跟着开跑了。Lai 连续上了好几次厕所,不过还好在开跑前赶回来了。我们已事先将大会给的晶片绑在鞋子上,一经过起跑点,时间自动被记录。我迈开脚,用自己的速度跑了起来。虽然不快,我知道只要我持续的跑,应该可以在限定的3个小时半跑完。

凌晨的空气很清新,让人精神爽朗。我跑了没多久,Lai就在我旁边出现,叫了我一声,然后超越我。我们从Queensbay Mall 出发,往槟威大桥的方向去。跑步的时候,我会习惯性的以前方某个点作为目标。如我会告诉自己,先跑到桥再说。到了桥以后,我又会说先跑了前方告示牌的地方再说。抵达后,感觉可以的话,我就不停下来,一次一次的以前方的目标前进。天气还不错,没有下雨,凉风习习。能一边吹吹风,欣赏夜景,一边跑步,感觉很棒。这次的赛事,水站很充足,一支支的矿泉水分发到参赛者手中。只是我觉得分发一支矿泉水真的很浪费,因为很多人都喝不完一整支水,又不愿带着一支水跑步,喝了一半都把它丢到地上。我觉得若可以倒入纸杯里,就不会浪费那么多支水了。我一直跑到大桥的中央才停下喝水。半马拉松的第一个转弯处是在桥的2.8处。喝了水后,2.8就成了我的下个目标了。经过4.4,4.3,4.2,4.1。。。。。终于到了转弯处,看看手表,大约4.45am。脚有点累,速度明显放慢,但还是坚持不停下。往桥中央的路是上斜的,有点吃力,回到桥中央时,我在水站停下喝了两杯冰凉的100Plus。除了水站外,大会也在路上提供湿海绵。我没拿,因为不知道那湿海绵的真正用处是什么。我看见许多人把海绵往头顶上放,然后挤出水,把头弄湿。是为了降温吗?不晓得。

第三次停下喝水的时候,我已经离开大桥,抵达第二个转弯处了。身上的背心早已被汗水湿透,脚也开始觉得痛了。有一个男生刚超越我不久,突然就抱着一只脚倒在地上痛苦的叫着:“抽筋!脚抽筋!”。周围的人都帮忙大喊救护人员及救护车。我稍稍休息了一会,继续跑下去,然后在下一个水站停下,喝杯100Plus。有水站的地方,纸杯总是满地,这已经是马拉松赛必有的景观。我知道终点大约只有不到5公里的距离,深呼吸了一下,决定将它跑完。终于,我看见Queensbay Mall 了。经过一个小交通圈,我的心情开始兴奋,我知道我即将完成我的第一次半马拉松,对我来说,那是一件不可思议的事。我到了,到了终点。看看时间,大约用了2个半小时完成,虽然这时间不算好,我却已经很开心了。我拿了寄放的背包,看见了Lai 和 Keen Yee. 他们俩的状态是对比的。Lai 有如生龙活虎,Keen Yee 却力尽筋疲。听说是因为Lai 在后方追着Keen Yee 跑导致的,哈哈!Chak 和 Huay Meia在随后的半小时内一一抵达终点。真好,我们全都完成目标了。Sew Yong 在我们返回公寓前就抵达起点,因为Fun Run也将于不久后开跑。

回返公寓途中,Chak, Keen Yee, Huay Meia 纷纷述说那段辛苦的跑步路程。他们虽直嚷着脚痛,累死了,可是语气却是开心愉快的。大家的模样都是疲惫的,可是眼神却是神采飞扬的。所以当Huay Mei说这是最后一次,Keen Yee说再也不上当时,我会心一笑,不认为那会是真的。我相信待些日子,只要再找个吃喝玩乐的理由,大家的身影又不知会出现在哪一个跑步的盛会上了。

Saturday, May 30, 2009

Taiwan Part 2 - 合欢山,太鲁阁 Mt Hehuan & Taruko National Park (19 - 21 March 09)

19 March 09. 离开南湖大山后,我们乘搭公车从思源垭口往梨山。途中经过武陵农场及奇莱山登山口。南湖的向导-文逸曾经说过,奇莱山是台湾百岳中最险峻和难爬的一座山。那里曾经发生几次山难,因而流传不少灵异故事。我在巴士上睡着了,睁开眼睛时已抵达梨山。梨山种满了梨树。三月正是开花的季节,光秃秃的梨树开满了白色及粉红色的花,很漂亮。路边的小贩卖的梨子很大一粒,我与Irene买了一粒40元的梨子,要求老板娘去皮切好。梨子一咬在口里,清甜的果汁充满整个口腔,多汁又爽口,好好吃哦!我们在梨山包租了一辆车子到合欢山。司机名叫雷洛,我想我应该可以用面恶心善来形容他吧。他的样子看起来像流氓,但脸上却总是挂着亲切的笑容,一路上还热心地给了我们中肯的旅游建议。当天,我们下榻于合欢山庄。合欢山庄有提供通铺,每人580元,包括一个早餐和晚餐。浴室是公用的,有热水供应。我冲了个热水澡,小休了片刻。大约下午4点,又是时候往合欢东峰出发了。从合欢山庄步行至东峰起点只需10分钟。起点旁的松雪楼正在装修。合欢东峰长满了箭竹,从远处望来,犹如一片辽阔的草原。登山步道虽然有点陡,却不难走。合欢东峰可以清楚的看见奇莱山,风景实在不赖。只是我早上刚从南湖大山下来,有些疲惫,又不太舒服,没有太多心思慢慢欣赏。山顶风很大很冷,我拍了照,待了一会儿,就开始下撤。其他队友也陆续下山。只有精力充沛的赖家三姐妹和海波留在山顶等待日落。回到合欢山庄,差不多是晚餐时间了。六点半,一桌子的菜肴已经准备好。对于吃了四天五谷米的我们,那晚餐简直可以用丰盛来形容了。我们不等海波和赖家姐妹,迫不及待开动了。天色已暗,我们那四位看日落的队友终回到山庄。晚上,温度应该介于8-10度吧。一整个星期都活在寒冷中,有点想念暖和的天气了。

20 March 09
清晨五点,雷洛就来到合欢山庄接我们了。往合欢主峰路上某处,雷洛告诉我们那是台湾公路最高点。当时天色还暗,我只是“哦”了一声,没有太留意。回程时停下拍照才知道他所说的就是武岭,标高3275公尺。我曾在旅游书籍里看过一些照片,没想到会造访这个地方,真是意外的惊喜。抵达合欢主峰山脚后,我才晓得原来车子并不能载我们到山顶。我的第一反应是:唉,又要爬山啊!或许是我的状态不好,当初我以为南湖之行结束后,我可以好好休息,恢复体力,因为我还有玉山之行呢。怎知道南湖大山后,就紧接合欢东峰,然后又是合欢主峰,还真的有点累。尽管如此,我还是跟随队友们的脚步,缓延而上。天色微亮,大约6时,我们抵达山顶。按照我们在马来西亚看日出的惯例,日出应该是天空会开始出现一片橙色,渐渐的橙红色的太阳会慢慢升起,然后才天亮。可是台湾不太一样,天空亮了,还不见太阳升起。我们都以为没日出可看了。突然,大伙儿喊了起来。犹如红鸡蛋的太阳出现了,徐徐升高,直至绽放耀眼光芒。在阳光的照耀下,合欢主峰披上了一件金色的外衣,山峦起伏,景色很是迷人。

离开合欢主峰,我们回到合欢山庄收拾行李,往下一站目的地-天祥,出发。一个星期以来,我们平均都在2000-3000公尺的地方活动,这天终于来到位于太鲁阁国家公园内,海拔450公尺的天祥,顿时觉得好暖和。我们入住天祥救国团青年活动中心。这里消费不便宜,五人房,每人收费700元,包括一个晚餐及早餐。不过这里有投币洗衣机和烘干机,正好让我们把几天来的脏衣物通通洗净烘干。抵达天祥救国团青年活动中心时不过是上午时分,我们还不能登记入住。于是到附近闲逛。我们在天祥的邮局里买纪念邮册,寄明信片,消磨了不少时间。然后到附近的祥德寺参观。下午,我们依着旅游手册到白杨步道去。由天祥往台中方向走约900公尺,过了明隧道,就看见公路左边有一隧道,这就是白杨步道入口处了。白杨步道是一段长达3.3公里的行人步道,可以抵达白杨瀑布,而步道的尽头就是水濂洞。途中经过好几段隧道,必须自备手电筒照明。一路上都设有告示牌 “注意落石” ,却被我们开玩笑成 “注意落后”。水帘洞还蛮好玩的。我把鞋脱了,穿了雨衣,沿着水道走入洞里。洞里很凉快,水从洞的上方流下,形成水濂。游客可以选择走在水道旁的小道,避免成为落汤鸡。我们起了童心,偏选择走水道,在水濂与水濂之间的缝隙穿梭,当然,我们被淋湿了,却玩得很开心。

晚餐后,我就躲在房间里看台湾的电视节目- 超级星光大道,至深夜才入眠。

21 March 09
早餐后,我们把行李寄放,然后搭巴士到锤麓断崖。由于巴士班次不频密(若没记错,一天只有4趟班车),所以从一个景点至另一个景点,我们惟有委屈双脚了。太鲁阁的峡谷风光明媚,游人可以悠闲的沿着步道一路慢慢欣赏大自然的鬼斧神工。游客被落石击中受伤的意外的确在这儿发生过。我们从锤麓断崖步行至靳珩公园,然后再到燕子口。接着又沿着原路回到锤麓断崖,往九曲洞去。峡谷、溪流、隧道、大理石、断层,这些大概就是一路上所见的内容了。从九曲洞,我们继续步行至慈母桥,再到绿水,然后回到天祥,大约走了9公里。其实到达绿水后,我是可以搭顺风车的,但突然觉得既然已走了8公里,剩下的1.3公里还是走完它吧。午餐后,我们把寄放的行李拿回,乘搭两点半的巴士往花莲。凤仪联络了在南湖之行认识的警察,询问往嘉义的交通资讯。没想到的是这位在几天前认识的警察山友在花莲的火车站等我们,还送了我们几盒麻薯,台湾人的热情真的让我们好感动。队友们打算前往阿里山,而我因为要在台北等待后天抵达的妹妹,所以不跟随。我们在夜晚8时许抵达台北车站后,队友们接着就往嘉义,我与万民则留在台北。万民比我们早到台湾,先爬了玉山,才随我们到南湖大山,所以阿里山他已到过。他原名苏万民,却被海波改名换姓成“车晚鸣”。我是通过海波认识万民的,所以跟着海波叫他车兄。庆幸有车兄在,我才免了在夜里找地方住的彷徨。

当晚,我们住在Happy Family Hostel,一个床位300台币,房间干净,距离台北车站只有几步之遥,地点好得没话说。从台北车站北门出口,往Hitachi告示牌的方向走,Happy Family Hostel就在OK Mart的后面。不过这地方若不是车兄带我去,我想我还真的找不到,因为它并没有明显的招牌。我感冒了,到药局去买了药,然后和车兄随便找了间店解决晚餐,再到台北之家拿回车兄寄放的行李,就这样结束充实的一天。

Friday, May 01, 2009

Taiwan Part 1 - 南湖大山登山行 Mt Nanhu (14 - 19 March 2009)

14 March 09, I arrived at Taoyuan International Airport at 2.20pm. My hiking friends were in Taipei a day earlier than me. I was told to meet them up at Taipei train station. So, I took the GuoKuang bus (国光客运) to Taipei Train Station (台北车站). Bus fare from Taoyuan Airport to Taipei Train Station is NTB 125. The bus is operated at 15-20 min frequency. The bus journey took about 50 minutes. After I met up with Hai Poh, Man Tack, Ai Yen and Wan Ming at Taipei train station, we took the train(自强号) to YiLan(宜兰). At there, I met up with the rest of the friends which arrived earlier at YiLan. There were 11 of us that would be joining Mt Nanhu hiking trip. We stayed at Yilan Youth Hostel (宜兰救国团学苑).

15 March 09, we met up with our trekking guide - Lim Wen Yi. He is already 50 years old, but looks younger than his age. He told us that we can call his nickname "YaZi"(鸭子) . Trekking permit of Mt Nanhu had been applied couple of months before with the help of a Taiwan friend - ChunChun (纯纯). 7.00am, we took bus from YiLan to SiYuanYaKou(思源埡口), the entrance of Mt Nanhu trekking trail. The bus journey was about 2 hours.


A week ago, it was snowing in the mountain. We waited at the entrance for other trekkers to come out to find out the snow situation in the mountain. Around 9.30am, we met some trekkers that came out from mountain. They told us there was still some snow left in the mountain but equipment like ice axe and crampons are not required. We were so glad to hear that as we could offload some weights. We started on the trek around 10.30am. It was 6.7km trek to reach the real starting point of Mt Nanhu trek. It took me 2.5 hours to reach this real starting point. To reach our destination of the day - YunLing Cabin (云稜山庄) at 2580m, it's another 5km trek. You may think that the total 11.7km is short, but when carrying the heavy backpack and trek on the trail that consists of ascents and descents, the journey became very long (at least for me). For guys, their backpack were even heavier as they have to carry the all the foods. When we reached YunLing Cabin, it's already 5.15pm.

This mountain hut is new and nicely built. I heard there is an old mountain hut that located not far away. There is a water tank that filled with rain water. Trekkers will use the water from the tank for cooking and drinking. To keep the hut clean, trekkers are prohibited from leaving the garbage including the leftover food at the hut. There are 2 toilets not far away from the hut. One is built nicely with the door, but it's very smelly. Another one is open toilet which there is no door/wall, but it's less smelly.

16 March 09, Wan Ming falls sick yesterday. He rest at YunLing Cabin whereas 10 of us continue our journey to Nanhu Cabin at 8am. After 2.5 hours trekking, we had slowly left the forest behind and ShenMaZhen grassland (审马阵草原) came into sight. The weather was good. Clear blue sky and beautiful mountains scenery. About 11.30am, we had made it to summit of Mt ShenMaZhen (审马阵山) at 3141m. We spent about half an hour resting and taking photographs before continue our journey under the hot sun. We passed by ShenMaZhen mountain hut(审马阵山屋) and moving uphill. There is a pond beside the ShenMaZhen mountain hut. I went down to the pond and tried to shoot some pictures of Mt Nanhu reflection but I was not successful. We reached at a junction, took the left trail and lead up to the north peak of Mt Nanhu. Mt Nanhu North Peak or NanhuBeiShan(南湖北山) at 3535m is one of the hundreds highest mountains in Taiwan (台湾百岳) . It offered 360-degree paranoma view, Mt Snow(雪山) ,Mt DaBaJian(大坝尖山) , Mt ZhongYangJian (中央尖山), ShengLinXian (圣陵线) or Holy Ridge can be clearly seen. It's windy at north peak. I felt very cold after awhile, quickly descended after took some pictures.

It was about 2.30pm when we left Mt Nanhu North Peak and moving towards WuYanFeng (五岩峰) or Five Rocky Peaks. As it named, there are 5 hills that we need to climb over. Both side of the path are the steep valley. I think WuYanFeng trail should be the most dangerous part of Mt Nanhu trekking, especially if there is snow or strong wind. The ascents and descents seem like never ending. I was very tired. 3.45pm, I had climbed up the 5th hills, saw a signboard indicate that Nanhu Cabin(南湖山庄) is 1km away. I can see the mountain hut down the deep slope. I thought I should be able to reach there very soon but I was wrong. The path down is more difficult than I thought. Slowly and carefully, I descended on the steep loose rocky slope. The cold wind blow strongly. Stress had been put on my knees and I started to felt pain. I was very cold and tiring, wondering why the 1km route was so far away. Finally, at 5.15pm, I checked in Nanhu Cabin.

Nanhu Cabin was located at the lower cirque glacier of Mt Nanhu (南湖下圈谷). At that day, it was fully occupied by 3 hiking teams including us. One of the team was the HuaLian(花莲) police team. The policeman is a nice guy. He gave us advice on our tour itinerary and offered his help if we plan to be in HuaLian. When we were at HuaLian 5 days later to take the train back to Taipei, he met us at the train station and bought us some local foods. All we can do is only say "thanks".

17 March 09, we started our trekking to Mt Nanhu main peak (南湖主峰) around 6.30am. Our guide purposely brought us to the trail that still has snow. Step by step, we were approaching Mt Nanhu main peak. 9.00am, I had reached the summit of Mt Nanhu main peak. There is a marker of 22.9km at the summit, indicate that we had trekked 22.9km to reach the peak at 3742m above sea level. We are busy photographing with different jumping pose. Mt Nanhu East Peak can be seen here. That's our next destination.

40 minutes later, we left Mt Nanhu main peak, heading towards the East Peak. Just before we reached the mountain foot of East Peak, Peng Meng found that he lost his camera. He suspect that he must be left it at the first resting point after we went down from the main peak. So, he went back to search for his camera while the rest of us wait for him there. Under the hot sun, we had waited for almost 1.5 hours. This place is shadeless. We felt the strong UV, at the same time, felt the cold air. That's why I had to wear the jacket, at the same time kept on apply the sun block. Peng Meng came back around 12.oopm, without his camera. He told us that he couldn't find it. He will follow us to hike up the East Peak, then go back once again to search the camera.

The summit of Mt Nanhu East Peak(南湖东峰) is different from the main peak. The summit of east peak is at the slope. The highest point of the slope stands a monument denotes an elevation of 3632m above sea level. Unlike at the main peak, we couldn't took the photos with the jumping pose. It will be too dangerous to do that. However, the rock formation at the east peak is very unique and pretty. After we descended from the summit, Peng Meng and our guide went to search for the camera while the rest of us follow the trail from the upper circque glacier back to the Nanhu Cabin at lower circque glacier. I back to Nanhu Cabin around 2.15pm. Surprisingly, we saw Wan Ming's belongings at the Nanhu Cabin. So we knew that he had recovered and probably on his way up to the main peak. Not bad, he recovered in 1 day and then able to cope with the journey. No wonder Hai Poh will say "he is as strong as an eagle". hehehe....:p

Finally, Peng Meng came back, with his camera on his hand. We were teasing him that he's the one that gain most from this trip - paid guide fee for 1 time, but went up to summit for 3 times, really worth for value. ;)

18 March 09, we were leaving Nanhu Cabin at 8.00am. Once again, we were on the steep rocky slope that rises up to the WuYanFeng(五岩峰). Bit by bit, step by step, we climbed up the slope. Suprisingly, all of us had climbed up the slope within 35 minutes. On this particular trail, ascent is actually easier than descent. We followed the same route, climbed up the five rocky peaks of WuYangFeng, reached the junction to Mt Nanhu North Peak. Our trekking pace became faster, we reached YunLing Cabin at 1.30pm. We rest and refill the water at YunLing Cabin before continue our journey to DuoJiaTun (多加屯) . Around 5pm, we reached DuoJiaTun.

The mountain hut of DuoJiaTun is very small, can only fit in 6 persons. Man Tack and Wan Ying helped to clean the dirty floor. DuoJiaTun is at 2795m. It's still very cold at night. 11 of us need to fit ourselves inside this mountain hut to spend the night. Each of us can only lie down in 1 pose and not able to move. I only slept for 2 hours and couldn't sleep again after that. I kept on watching my watch, counting down the time for the sunrise. At that time, I felt that the time was crawling like snails. I was so glad that finally it's 5am, time to wake up.

19 March 09, we packed our things and left DuoJiaTun around 6.30am. We had to rush for the bus at 9.30am, thus there was no time for us to take the leisure walk. By 9am, we had reached SiYuanYaKou, marked the completion of the Mt Nanhu hiking trip.



Below is our hiking route:

SiYuanYaKou,1930m (思源埡口) -> Main Entrance, 2300m(登山口) -> YunLing Cabin, 2580m(云稜山庄) -> Mt ShenMaZhen, 3141m(审马阵山) -> Mt Nanhu North Peak,3535m (南湖北山) -> Nanhu Cabin, 3592m (南湖山庄) -> Mt Nanhu Main Peak, 3742m(南湖主峰)-> Mt Nanhu East Peak, 3632m(南湖东峰)-> TuoJiaTun,2795m (多加屯) -> SiYuanYaKou(思源埡口).



Other Info:
1) In taiwan, trekking permit has to be applied at least 3 weeks in advance. With the trekking permit that obtained from national park, go to the police station to apply for the mountain entrance permit. For Mt Nanhu trekking permit application, refer to the website http://permits2.taroko.gov.tw/welcome/index.aspx.

2) For train info, refer http://www.railway.gov.tw/index/index.aspx

3) Yilan Youth Hostel (宜兰救国团学苑), refer http://tw.myblog.yahoo.com/yilanstudenthostel

4) To reach SiYuanYaKou (思源埡口), take the GuoGuang bus (国光客运) of route Yilan(宜兰)-LiShan(梨山), take off from Yilan at 7am and 12.40pm daily.
For bus info, refer to http://www.kingbus.com.tw/time&price.php

Saturday, January 24, 2009

环绕安那普那(Annapurna Circuit)徒步行(11-31 Oct 2008) - Part 3

23 Oct 2008 (Thursday) - Muktinah (3800m) -> Marpha (2598m)

离开Muktinah之前,我们到旅舍对面的喇嘛庙参观。 秋意正浓, Muktinah及附近的村镇在杨胡树的衬托下显得格外动人。我们犹如置身秋天的童话,不自觉地把脚步放慢,舍不得离开。从Muktinah到Jharkot再到Khinga,顶多一小时许的路程,我们竟然消磨了3个小时。离开Khinga时已是10点30分,开始起风了。景色渐渐变化,越来越荒凉。又平又长的道路在眼前摊开,我回头望,仍然可以看见耀眼的雪山。我觉得那景色好有电影画面的感觉。风声在耳边呼呼的响着,我戴上MP3机的听筒,让流行乐取代风声。感受着风,感受着音乐,感受着旅行,那一刻,我很快乐。

但是,快乐和痛苦是并存的。午后那将近2个半小时的河床风沙路就让我苦不堪言。我的双脚在几天前就起了水泡,河床的碎石让痛楚加剧。大风刮起沙石,为前进添加不少阻力。好不容易终于在大约2点45分到达Jomson。肚子早就饿坏了,迫不及待地到向导指定的餐厅吃午餐。Teck Long 突然说不想走了,要乘坐电单车到Marpha。我们面面相觑,假装若无其事。其实吉普车与电单车的服务从Muktinah开始就有了。可最后因为价钱的问题,Teck Long还是没有乘电单车,继续与我们同行。Jomson到Marpha大约还要1个半小时的时间。时候不早了,午餐后,我们不敢多作耽搁,马上起程往Marpha。

山友炳明曾大力推荐Marpha,说那是一个非常值得停驻的地方。而我对Marpha的认知只限于:那里有很好吃的苹果。所以当路旁开始出现苹果园时,我知道我到了Marpha。而我们已风尘仆仆的走了共7个小时的路。我们住的旅舍隔壁就有长满果子的苹果树。海波翻上墙,企图偷采苹果。怎么知道被主人发现,虽然没有被骂,却让别人给笑话了。其实也不用偷,晚餐时,向导就拿了苹果给我们吃。我们直说这苹果真好吃,结果向导和背夫Gobin就不断地拿苹果来,我们可是吃苹果吃到饱。

当晚,雪琴没有用晚餐。德龙则是很迟才出来用餐。这一对一路恩爱的未婚夫妇不知怎的竟冷战起来。我们不知道各中原由,唯有静观其变。

24 Oct 2008 (Friday) - Marpha (2598m) -> Kalopani (2530m)

昨天到Marpha村镇时天色已晚,没有到外头走走。所以我们在未起程往Kalopani前到村子里随处逛逛。我参观了村子里头的一间庙宇。这里确实和之前所到过的村子不同。说是村子,其实这里更像一座古色古香的小城。房子的屋顶是木材堆砌而成。房子的墙壁则是由石块筑成,再漆上白色,配上巧克力色的窗户,非常有特色。这个村子的道路都是由整齐平坦的石块铺成,还有完善的排水系统。

Marpha到处都是苹果园,没采到苹果我们是不甘心离开的。我们经过一个很大的苹果园,都是果实累累的果树,我们忍不住就走进去了。有工人正在采苹果,送了几粒青苹果给我们,好吃得不得了。但是这里还是不允许我们采苹果,即使我们愿意付钱买。终于有一家人肯让我们买自己摘下来的果子,太好了!于是我们兴高采烈的采苹果去。Teck Long和雪琴也似乎因为采苹果而合好了,还真是意外的收获。我想爱情路上总免不了争执,都是因为在乎对方吧。误会化开,感情会因更了解对方而升温。我衷心的祝福我这两位山友白头谐老,永结同心

苹果采了,我们满足了。接下来又是风尘仆仆的赶7个小时的路。双脚都起了水泡,走每一步都疼,尽量迁就,不往脚尖使力,却也越走越慢。途中的景色都是河床与河谷。大约下午4点,我们抵达Kalopani。患上高山症的永刚也搭吉普车从Muktinah赶到了这里,从新归队。可是当我见到他时,他的脸色还是很不好,状态并没有恢复。我在晚餐时听他说了些他到遭遇。原来他的高山反应症状一直没有好转。在再一次尝试过Thorong La Pass时,头痛又犯了,没办法继续走。后来有人牵着马问他要不要骑马上去,在背夫Nima的怂恿下,他答应了。其实这举动是很危险的,还好他最后挺过去了。5416公尺的海拔是抵达了,代价是200元美金,我们确定他被趁火打劫。无论如何,他算是达到了Annapurna Circuit行程中最重要的目标。

明天将是9个小时的行程,天啊!

25 Oct 2008 (Friday) - Kalopani (2530m) -> Tatopani (1200m)
刚出发的时候,我们经过一所学校,看见人潮不断涌进去。我们也跟着进去看看。原来是即将举行一场排球赛。当球队拍团体照时,我们也凑热闹的走前去一起上镜。球员们非但没有叫我们走开,反而很合作地顺从我们多次的拍照请求。今天的行程很长,我们不能久留,所以球赛开始没多久,我们就离开了。永刚的状况还是挺糟糕。他气色很不好,说肚子不舒服,走不了多远就必须停下休息。一路停停走走,海波甚至还尝试背他走一小段路,终于还是拦截一辆吉普车载他到下一个可以搭车的地方。他与背夫Nima搭吉普车到Tatopani,而我们则继续以双脚代替轮子,一步步地走下去。一路上往Tatopani,我们都没有见到其他登山队伍。我想他们大概都选择搭吉普车吧。老实说,当一辆辆的车子驶过时,我觉得自己像个傻子。在已通车的这一段路 (Kalopani 到Tatopani),徒步其实可以省却。更何况沿途风景也没有漂亮得必须慢慢徒步欣赏。不过,这纯属个人意见,不代表我的朋友们的想法。像海波就觉得必须要徒步走完它,才算圆满。下午5时许,我们终于到达。

Tatopani在尼泊尔文的意思是热水。顾名思义,Tatopani有温泉。我们还蛮期待可以泡泡温泉的。但是当我们看到所谓的温泉时,马上打消了泡热汤的念头。那两个挤满了人的温泉池,看来实在很不卫生。我连脚都不想放进池里,可想而知那不卫生的程度了。而糟糕的是我们所住的旅舍非常非常简陋,不能冲凉。我那天的心情不多不少都被影响了。我脚底的水泡又严重了,上下楼梯必须扶着扶手,一拐一拐的撑着。这两天所走的路已让我失去徒步的乐趣了。我只觉得风景普普通通,路又长又远,吉普车经过时的烟味让我很不舒服,很累,心里很不想走,却又不得不走下去。

26 Oct 2008 (Saturday) - Tatopani (1200m) -> Ghorapani (2855m)

这一天我们又从新走在没有车子的道路上。这才像徒步嘛,车子来来往往的,走路就显得多余了。一出发没多久,我们就开始上坡,踩着石级一步步往上爬。我的状态很差,上气不接下气地走在最后面。这上坡的路像是无止尽的天梯,很多时候以为结束了,另一段的陡坡又出现。这八个小时的行程,99%都是在上坡。有一次在途中休息的时候,与从巴塞罗那来的登山客谈了几句。他们很友善,也完成了Thorong La Pass,我想他们的年龄应该至少比我大十岁,但体力却比我强十倍。刚开始时我还可以在途中见到他们,渐渐的我就再也看不见他们的身影了。我用尽了所有的力气,忍着脚疼,很累的时候就告诉自己多走一步,多走一步就靠近目的地多一点,好不容易在4.15pm到达Ghorapani。抵达后,我在房间里一动也不动的坐了15分钟,我真的已经筋疲力尽了。凤凤稍后也到了,她和我一样,坐在床上休息喘气。我们这两个木头人就这样坐了将近半个小时。我把鞋袜脱了,发现脚底的水泡变成了紫色,里头都是血水。

入住的旅舍有一队新加坡人。这是我们在行程中第一次遇见华人队伍。虽然如此,我并没有与他们交谈。性格使然,我习惯性的冷漠。倒是海波有和他们寒喧几句。我们的行程已接近尾声了,还有两天,我们将离开Annapurna山区。不管怎样,心里还是会有些舍不得,痛苦的,美好的,都即将成为记忆,成为我们生活的养份。心情突然在这个时候变得有点复杂起来了。


27 Oct 2008 (Monday) - Ghorapani (2855m) -> Poon Hill (3200m) -> Hille (1520m)
我们清晨3点半起床,4点半出发往Poon Hill山顶。大约爬了一个小时的石阶,5五点半到达山顶。山顶很冷,海波的温度计显示是摄氏零度,我们在寒风中等待日出。我们已经冷得直哆嗦,海波还是不理我们的抗议,唱起年代久远的歌来,寒上加寒。人群渐渐多了,天色也渐渐亮了。老实说,那日出实在不怎么样,看不见红色的太阳从地平线升起,还好有多座雪山映着那金色的光辉,才让Poon Hill的日出显得有看头。

我们忍着寒冷不断拍照,在人群将散去时才下山。回到旅舍收拾背包,用早餐,然后徒步下至Uleri。原计划在Uleri住宿,但到达Uleri时才下午1时。时间还早,部份队员包括我都觉得可以继续往下走。可是比我们早到的背夫们已把我们的背包放进房间,冲好凉,晾了衣服,不想走下去了。为了走不走这问题,我们僵持了好一阵子。因为我们没有住宿,而背夫们却在那冲凉,旅舍要我们付钱。讨论协议了好久,终于还是付了钱,继续再往下走。我在下午两点半抵达Hille,行程暂时画上逗号。Hille的景色比Uleri漂亮。我觉得我们继续往下走的决定是正确的。我们住在稻田边的旅舍。这个时候正是稻子成熟季节,所以可看见农民们收割金黄色的稻米。

这是我们在安那普那山区的最后一个晚上,我心情很平静,没有太多的情绪,就觉得是时候要画上句点了。问自己还会再来吗?或许不会再来了。但世事难料,未来的事让时间决定吧。

28 Oct 2008 (Tuesday) - Hille (1520m) -> Nayapul -> Pokhara

早晨八点从Hille出发,我们10点半就到达Nayapul了。Nayapul是Annapurna Base Camp trek的起点,所以特别多旅客。我们即将离开,但有很多旅客却刚抵达,正要展开他们的行程。人来人往,安那普那山区应接着一批又一批的旅客,似乎不曾间断。也许是因为太多旅客吧,总觉得安那普那已有点太商业化了,所以我还是比较喜欢完全没有车子的EBC路线。我们乘搭公共巴士来到Pokhara,见到了永刚。他精神奕奕,告诉我们说他已康复。我们将在Pokhara停留两天才回到Kathmandu. 虽然三天后才会飞回吉隆坡,但Annapurna Circuit 徒步行就在这里结束了。唯一遗憾的是没有遇上下雪,不然那漂亮的雪景一定会让我们留连忘返。接下来的时间,当然就是逛街购物了。Pokhara的旅客区就在一个大湖边,有很多商店,有卖登山用品的,手工艺品的,让我们逛得不亦乐乎。晚上,我们到当地的一间中餐厅用晚餐。我觉得那菜色实在不怎么样,但队友却赞不绝口,吃得很开心。我想应该是我太挑剔吧。

尼泊尔有很多兴都教徒。有别于马来西亚,尼泊尔人庆祝一个星期的屠妖节。每一天都有不同的主题,这天正好是水牛日,所以可以看见水牛在街上招摇过市。在这个节庆间,有很多小孩逐家逐户地去讨赏。他们在门口喊着一些祝贺语,一直喊到主人给一些小钱打发为止。有一些小孩甚至试着在马路拦阻车子,当车子停下,他们就向司机讨钱。这样的举动看在眼里实在觉得无可奈何,这么危险,他们的父母为什么会放着不管,难到是父母不知情,还是我们多虑了?

29 Oct 2008 (Wednesday) - Pokhara

我们有一整天的时间在Pokhara。我是第一次来这尼泊尔第二大城市,想到附近的景点走走。我,永刚,Teck Long和雪琴租了两辆电单车想到山上的一座庙宇参观。我们在城市里遥遥地就看见了那座庙宇。我与永刚租的电单车在上山坡的时候忽然停下不动了。打开油箱看,发现没有油了,但油针明明显示有油,唉,原来是坏了。Teck Long和雪琴于是下山去买汽油回来。好不容易终于可以再次上路,我们继续往山坡上骑。那庙宇开始离开我们的视线,于是我们停下向一个年轻人问路。他不太懂我们说什么,我们把地图拿给他,指着我们要去的地方。他告诉我们可以把电单车停在路边,然后走路上去。有个十来岁的孩子跑来说我们可以把车子停在他家,给他一些小费,他会帮我们看管。我们向他询问有没有路直接上到庙宇去,那小孩很肯定的再三告诉我们电单车不能上去,必须把车停在那儿,走路上去。没法子,只好委屈双脚了,以为可以轻松的驾着电单车去游玩,结果还是得爬山,宿命啊!

太阳挂高空,热死了。四周光秃秃的,在这个时候爬山是很难受的。当我们终于到达时,发现有石子路可以直接到达庙宇。我们知道被那小孩耍了。这一次来到尼泊尔,对尼泊尔人的印象大打折扣。他们已不再如我印象中的纯朴,有好些人都是一直想办法在游客身上敲诈。是不是因为Annapurna已太商业化,那么我两年前到过的EBC是不是也变了样?

这是一座佛寺, 名为日本山妙法寺。山上有座佛塔,塔上有佛主的金身。我们在那里遇见了同样来自马来西亚的一位尼僧。她是从西藏过来的,将一路追随着佛陀的脚步到印度去朝圣。除了参观寺庙以外,这里还可以眺望整个Pokhara的市景,绝对是个值得一游的景点。

时间不知不觉的溜走,午餐后,我们下山去取电单车。但刚驶了10 分钟,永刚与我共乘的电单车又故障了。我们打开油箱,发现油箱是空的。Teck Long打开另一辆电单车的油箱,也接近空了。我们很肯定油被偷走了,因为上山前刚加了油,无论如何电单车也不可能耗油到这种程度。电单车只停在那小孩的家,油被谁偷走,不用多说也知道。还好油站就在不远处,我们添了油,想到地图上的古城走走。我与永刚乘的电单车在下岗的时候就会故障,开不动。这连串的故障让我们没什么心情继续了。我们找到了所谓的古城,只不过是一俩栋类似Durbar Square里的建筑物而已,实在令人失望。天色已暗,我们拍了张照片后就赶快回到游客区去,回旅店找其他队友吃晚餐。

屠妖节的庆典依旧持续着。这个晚上,路边突然多了许多“舞台” 。那都是一些年轻人各自拿了收音机,开了强劲的音乐,在跳舞。那欢乐的节庆气氛一直洋溢至深夜。

30 Oct 2008 (Thursday) - Pokhara -> Kathmandu

一大清早,我们就乘搭出租车往Kathmandu出发。出租车是旅店安排的,我们已经预先订了在Thamel的旅店,负责人答应我们说车子会送我们到旅店去。万万没想到临时又被司机敲诈。车子已经到了Kathmandu,可是离开Thamel还有很远的一段距离。司机竟然把车子停下,说必须再付一笔钱,否则就必须下车。我们压根儿不知道自己身处何方,当然不愿意就此下车,也不愿被敲诈。车上除了我们八个人以外,还有另外两名游客。最后我们打电话到Pokhara,让旅店的老板跟司机洽谈。司机挂了电话后,突然答应载我们到Thamel去。我们到达旅店后,看见旅店的负责人有付钱给司机,猜想先前的风波应该是由旅店付费解决的。

再一次回到Thamel,除了逛街,还是逛街。首都附近的景点我已到过,所以没有兴趣再参观。逛逛,买买纪念品,手信等,就这样消磨掉剩下的两天。

隔天晚上,我们就搭飞机回到了马来西亚。我的第二次尼泊尔之旅随着飞机的起飞而正式谢幕了。